Ancestry Magazine

As a child, I spent hours playing in the jewelry boxes of my grandmother and great-aunt. I handled and admired each treasured piece as I created gaudy combinations in front of the mirror. When I became a teenager, my love of jewelry remained, but my enthusiasm for the old-fashioned baubles in the boxes faded for more new-fangled fare.

Years later, when my great-aunt passed away, I became the heir of her jewelry box. I reopened the large stand-up mahogany chest and was filled with memories of the out-of-date pieces. Poised next to a wastebasket, I was ready to discard a large portion of the supposed junk that was housed inside. Then I discovered that although many of the pieces were not diamonds and gold, they were treasures. The box held pieces of a woman’s life that provided clues to places, events, family ties, and personality.

Like me, you probably won’t find much documentation on the life of your female ancestor through her jewelry, but with a bit of research, these little treasures are sure to yield clues to family history in the form of location, life events, and personality.

Clues to Location
One of the most intriguing clues that can be gleaned from a piece of jewelry is the place of origination. Although not a source document for the location of an ancestor, understanding the regional distinctiveness of an ancestor’s jewelry can offer information on where your ancestor may have lived or traveled.

One of the treasures I discovered in my great-aunt’s jewelry box was a turquoise scarab pendant. These small carved animals, although sold around the world, are typically created by craftsm en in Egypt. I learned that my aunt had a penchant for travel in her later years. Because she lost her husband at a young age and never had children, she spent her later years traveling the world. From Egypt to New Zealand to the Orient, her jewelry shows her as a woman of adventure.

Materials are one of the most effective ways to distinguish location. Certain materials like semi-precious stones are mined in only a few places in the world. For example, lapis lazuli, with its opaque cobalt blue base and gold flecks, comes primarily from the Badakshan district of Afghanistan near the border of Pakistan. And turquoise comes from several places including the North American Southwest, China, Africa, and South America. Cloisonné beads are another example. These Chinese-made metal beads are crafted with a delicate layered enameling process and can be distinguished by their unique designs of flowers, fish, and other symbols of nature.

Materials can also offer a time frame for when the piece originated. For example, turquoise, although previously mined in several places in the world, now comes primarily from China; many of the other mines (like those found in the Southwest) are depleted of their stone. Subsequently, knowing where the materials originated may determine when a piece was created.

The style of the particular piece of jewelry can also lend clues to location. For example, brooches created from black jet during the late 1800s and early 1900s invariably came from a mine in Whitby, England. This mine was the primary producer of “Victorian” jet during that era. The Victorian style of jewelry is delicate and distinctive. Therefore, pieces utilizing this style and material most likely originated from this area of England.

Many haute couture designers and high-end craftsmen mark their pieces with a symbol. (Keep in mind that many of these marks are so tiny they can only be seen through a jeweler’s loupe.) There are many resources available to help you decipher what a specific mark represents, and once you know a specific craftsman or designer, you will learn the place of origin. Consult books, antique dealers who specialize in jewelry, and jewelers who are trained in the repair or recreation of antique pieces.

Many times a manufacturer’s insignia is found on the underside of a ring or earring clasp, or may be included on a small metal hang-tag placed near the clasp of a bracelet or necklace. Occasionally pieces include a serial number or design patent number. Numbers like these can be invaluable clues to when, where, and by whom a piece was made. Be careful that you don’t confuse the popular “925” mark that appears on many sterling silver pieces as a designer or craftsman mark. This is an industry standard denoting that the piece is sterling silver. Imported pieces in particular will include this mark. Also, if you discover a set of initials stamped into the underside of a piece, these initials may be the stone setter’s and not the designer’s.

Clues to Life and Historical Events
Matching a piece of jewelry with an event or relationship can add depth and context to the life story of a family member. For example, the famous “I like Ike” political buttons are memorabilia that can teach future generations about the events surrounding the life of an ancestor. In this case, the ancestor was likely a proponent of Dwight D. Eisenhower’s campaign for the presidency in 1952.

Fashion typically changes with shifts in societal values. Subsequently, by understanding the fashion of the time, you may be able to decipher clues to the context in which it was worn. For example, the demure single-strand sixteen-inch necklaces of the Edwardian period illustrated the conservative values of the time and defined social roles of the era. But a decade later during the roaring twenties, brides were often seen wearing long, multiple-strand beads, some with knots or opulent diamond and pearl tassels at the end. Bead size also increase d as the era saw its short-skirted flapper girls not only wearing more jewelry, but twirling and flaunting it as well. Excess and opulence had become a part of society in the 1920s and the jewelry of the day illustrated the sociological shift.

Keep in mind that because the fashion cycles were so short lived in the late 1900s, nearly every style of jewelry has been recycled in the last fifty years and reincarnations can be so convincing that owners can be deceived. For example, jewel-encrusted brooches from the 1940s were in fashion again in the 1990s, as were the long, knotted, pearl necklaces of the roaring twenties. Be careful not to assume that just because you found it in Grandma’s jewelry box that it came from an early era. Utilizing a certified jeweler or antiques appraiser can help you determine the time period of the piece.

Clues to Personality
The jewelry a woman wore throughout her life illustrates her personality. My grandmother’s sorority pin, my mother’s pin, and my own pin demonstrate personality traits that have been passed down from generation to generation. And the symbols of our love for social interaction, loyalty, and the importance of friendship in our lives can not be illustrated in a more tangible way. The importance of education in our family is also demonstrated by these three tiny lapel pins.

Similarly, military insignia can help you learn the personality of a family member who served in the armed forces. Where, when, and with whom a soldier served is made clear with certain types of insignia. Coupled with a photograph of the ancestor, these tiny items can speak volumes to the personality and life experience of an individual. They can also offer clues to location, skills, and connections with other cultures.

Charm bracelets are another way to understand a lifetime of activities and personal likes and dislikes. Made popular in the mid-1900s, each little charm can show the varied interests of the person who wore it.

Finding a Family Heirloom
If you think you’ve discovered a piece of jewelry worn by an ancestor and you want to be sure, start by asking family members for information about the item and the person who wore it. Make sure that you ask for any photos that might show your ancestor either wearing the piece or participating in the event for which the piece was important (e.g., graduation or wedding). Document any stories or information you gather. For pieces that have been handed down for generations, it is important to document the various stories surrounding each family member who owned the piece. Often, uncovering stories like these can uncover family ties that were not previously apparent.

One of the most wonderful things about a family heirloom is learning how it ties generations together. Documenting these connections will be important as you pass the piece on to the next generation. You might also be surprised how this kind of legacy can ignite interest in family members who previously had no interest in family history.

Next, it is wise to photograph the piece from as many different angles as possible. If it has a manufacturer’s mark or engraving, make sure you have these markings recorded with a photograph as well. You might also want to photograph the piece in different light. Colored gemstones can look very different in natural light versus incandescent light. Make sure that your record will allow anyone to recognize the piece if it was discovered separate from the documentation.

Once you have documented as much as you can, take the piece to a professional jewelry appraiser or to an antiques dealer who specializes in jewelry. Ask him or her to give you as much documented information as possible, including what the piece is made of (including the clasp), any manufacturer information, and the approximate date of origination. Once you have an appraisal, you can do more research on the time period, craftsman or designer, and the societal val ues associated with the time the piece was created.

Now, store the item either with the history you have gathered, or with a clear reference to the history. If the piece is still being worn and sits in a jewelry box on its days off, create a fabric pouch that contains a reference to where the history resides.

Creating a Family Heirloom
If you are thinking of giving an important gift to a family member and would like to see it passed down for future generations, the following tips will help you turn your gift into a family heirloom.

Buy quality. If you want the piece to last and to have sentimental value, buy the best-quality product. If you can’t afford diamonds and gold, try just gold or semi-precious stones. The better the quality, the more likely the piece will last and be handed down for future generations to enjoy.

Engrave whenever possible. Engraving can leave important genealogical information for the next generation. Watches are particularly good for this kind of sentiment. Engraving should include at least the initials of the party or parties involved, some kind of sentiment, and the date, if there is space on the piece. Keep in mind that if the recipient has particularly acidic skin, you may want to have the jeweler engrave in a place where the letter will not be in direct contact with skin (like inside the watch case, rather than on the back). Just make sure the recipient knows it’s there.

Document. Because the recipient of the gift may not take the time to photograph and document it, take it upon yourself to do so. Once it has been documented, chances are higher that the gift will be handed down for future generations to enjoy. If there is any associated documentation that belongs with the piece, include it with the gift. Many jewelry artists may not stamp their piece with a mark, but they will include a signed card with the item. Make sure that you inform th e recipient if this kind of documentation is included.

Style. Choose a distinctive style. It should be representative of an era or of the personality of the individual. For example, give a Mickey Mouse lover a gold engraved Mickey Mouse watch, or a native of New Mexico a turquoise squash blossom necklace. I am most grateful that my mother saved the pink rhinestone necklace and earring set that she wore on her wedding day in 1955. Colored rhinestone sets are one of the styles most indicative of the 1950s, and they connect me to this time in my parents’ lives in a way nothing else can.

Even if your heirloom jewelry box doesn’t hold documents of life events, it undoubtedly holds timeless clues to places, events, family ties, and even the personality of your female ancestor. Hopefully, these items will be treasured in your family for many generations to come.

Kristen Dame Knight has been involved in the jewelry business for the past twelve years. She now has her own business designing and selling custom jewelry.